Electric Blue Jack Dempsey by Craig Forist

 

Tateurndina ocellicauda (Peacock Gudgeon) by Jeremy DeRoos

(All photos by author) 

*Female (left) and Male (Right)

Origin 

Tateurndina ocellicauda is endemic to Papua New Guinea. Their natural habitat consists of streams, ponds and rivers. When found further east of the island, they’re typically found within rainforests; where you’ll identify the shoaling behavior. 

Aquarium Set-up 

These specimens will suffice as a pair, within a 10 gallon aquarium. Layering the bottom of the tank with pea gravel, and adding some aquatic plants will make for an enjoyable viewing. 

A sponge filter as filtration is sufficient. Add a coconut hut, clay water spike or a breeding cave. Preferable within our systems, is our Sergeant Tank, LLC Custom Breeding Caves or a Clay Water Spike. 

Determining Male and Female Identify male and female for breeding selection. Males will posses more of a rounded head (nuchal hump), while the females are more streamline, also possessing a black line; along bottom of anal fin. As females mature, they’ll also have a more pronounced yellow belly. Males will tend to display a red line; along anal fin. (Refer to main image) 

Feeding Adults 

Maintain a balance of carbohydrates and proteins. They enjoy sinking pellets, White Worms and Daphnia. 

Water Parameters 

Ammonia: 0 

Nitrite: 0 

Nitrate: 5-35 (ppm) 

GH: 160-300 (ppm) 

KH: 120-400 (ppm) 

PH: 7.2-8.2 

Temperature: 72-80 

Breeding, Harvesting and Rearing Offspring 

The past couple years, I’ve tested several methods for breeding, rearing and raising offspring. I’ve found the following to be the best; with regards to sustainable results:

Step 1: Have a cycled 10 gallon aquarium ready, as mentioned within the previous section (Aquarium Set-up).

Step 2: Add a pair to the system. No dithers, and or any other livestock added; all for the exception of snails. 

Step 3: Maintain appropriate water chemistry, as mentioned in the previous section (Water Parameters). 

Step 4: Conditioning isn’t a challenge. Conduct a 50% water change in the evening. (NO Reverse Osmosis needed).

You can entice with live foods, such as i.e, live Daphnia or White Worms. 

Step 5: Once they’ve spawned in the breeding hut, cave or water spike; allow 24 hours after spawn until obtaining eggs. Prepare a deli cup with dechlorinated water, ensuring temperature is the same as the breeding system. 

Step 6: Carefully remove the eggs by utilizing a pipette or turkey baster. The process is a bit easier with the Sergeant Tank, LLC. breeding caves, as these have a removable top. You’ll utilize either the pipette or turkey baster (as shown within photo).

Step 7: Place over the (already prepared deli cup, as shown within photo) and squeeze the turkey baster or pipette to release eggs into the container.

Step 8: Add two drops of Ich X to the deli cup. Very IMPORTANT is NOT to add too much; as this will cause the eggs to calcify, resulting in failed embryo development. You only want the water “tinted” blue (as shown within photo). Any more than this, could result in the suffocation of embryos.

Step 9: Place a deli cup in an area with only ambient light illumination, and maintain at a temperature of 73 - 75 degrees. Add an airline and ONLY provide light airriation (as shown within photo).

Step 10: On day two (after pulling the eggs) conduct a 50% water change with dechlorinated tap water (just like the initial deli cup set-up). Ensure the water is the same temperature as deli cup water. Also, remove any “white/fungus” eggs and discard. 

Step 11: On day four and six change 90% water (proceed just like step 10). 

Step 12: On day seven change 100% water (proceed just like step 10). 

Step 13: Between days 8-10 (which is when offspring are in the transition phase from wrigglers to free swimming) you’ll then add them to a hang-on fry box / breeder box, with an uplift tube (as shown within photo). Carefully pour ALL the water containing offspring (from deli cup) into the hang-on fry box / breeder box. Ensure to add a SLOW flow of uplifted water into the hang-on.

You can add a small portion of plants within the hang-on, to help aid in balancing water chemistry (As shown within photo).

Step 14: Time to move onto feeding offspring

Feeding Offspring 

Twice per day (morning and evening) add a small amount of microworms to the hang-on. 

Once offspring have reached an appropriate size (around days 17-25) you can then transition to Live Daphnia or Live Baby Brine Shrimp. The day for which it’s time to transition into Daphnia and or Baby Brine will vary. 

Once offspring have reached approximately quarter inch size, you’ll then transition them into the tank for which you have the hang-on fry box / breeder box. 

CONSISTENCY in the adaptation process is CRITICAL; meaning water chemistry, including temperature is very important. 

Continue to feed Live Daphnia and or Baby Brine Shrimp. Once the offspring have matured to approximately half inch size, you’ll then transition into powder food (crush up some Tetra Color Granules and or equivalent). Then alternate feed with powdered food and Live Daphnia and or Baby Brine Shrimp. You can continue to feed twice per day (morning and evening). 

Water Changes (Main Grow-out System) Conduct weekly 20% dechlorinated water changes. Ensure temperature is on-point during the water change process. Maintain appropriate water parameters as mentioned in (Water Parameters) section. 

Additional Information 

Ensure for best results, maintain as species only set-up; especially during the growth stages of development. 

If eggs turn “white” and or “fungus” over, this typically means they were not “fertilized”. If they all turn “white” and or “fungus” over, this typically is an issue with your incubation phase (the process mentioned herein) or there’s an issue with infertility. Don’t give up, and try again! The enjoyable part with these specimens, is they spawn about every two weeks! 

Conclusion 

These specimens are an amazing addition to home aquaria. With patience, you’ll become successful! As with any species of aquatic animal, observing growth stages is by far one of the most rewarding, and enjoyable parts of this hobby.

Singrays by Eric Maxson

 

I am starting to get a lot of people interest in Ray keeping so I just thought I needed to post this for everyone..hope it will help...... First before I start.... Ray keeping is an absolutely amazing experience BUT… means commitment and has to be a conscientious decision on your side so think carefully before you take the step…The second point to consider when it comes to dealing with rays is THINK BIG, as big as you can … and then go a step further! Some specimens get very big !!!

Ensure that you have the time/ commitment that these demanding stingrays require. If cared for correctly they may live for up to 20 years and most of them grow to over 18" and could up to 30" in diameter.

SO PLEASE Don’t start off with a small tank and say I WILL UPGRADE.. WE ALL KNOW LIFE TAKES UNEXPECTED TURNS… 3......Filtration and water quality:

if you can keep discus.. you can keep rays except you need a bigger tank and Bigger filtration

When dealing with filters, LARGE filtration is needed as they consume large amounts of food and some are messy eaters, they produce heavy amounts of bio load and they are very sensitive to water quality so big filter and water changes...... Everyone always ask about PH. I say Don’t fiddle with Ph, acclimate the ray and let her get used to the Ph in your tank.

Rays will easily adapt to various ph levels, The most important thing is to keep the ph stable. When you fiddle and try to adjust it, the variations in the ph will more likely kill your ray instead of the higher ph....Food...I myself feed red worms market shrimp and tilapia. but there is a large range of food they will take...last Tank mate..geos are great severums, Arowana are just a few.. DO NOT KEEP african cichlids Oscars Pleco's-ect with them... been doing a lot of research of them lately and this was the best way to say it.